2.1 Your Mindset
There’s this widespread impression that something magical happens in Korea with respect to beauty and youth. Frankly, the technology is not more advanced here. Ulthera, Thermage, Sofwave, CO2 and other lasers are available in the US and all over the world. But it’s possible that the doctors are more experienced.
The Korean government supports a form of financing for these machines that allows dermatologist clinics to purchase them at a low interest rate. So the top machines are in virtually every clinic. Then there’s the density of the metropolitan area, and the widespread usage of skin care services, which means the machines are put to work. Finally, the assembly line style processing of customers at clinics means that each dermo gets a ton of reps. So, I do think that Korean dermos get more practical experience in a shorter time than many of their counterparts in other parts of the world. For me, there’s real comfort and confidence in knowing that the fellow who diagnosed and zapped off my first age spot (!) with a CO2 laser has done it 10,000 times before.
I marvel at how many patients can be seen in a Korean clinic vs. an equivalent US one. My mentor, a US-based asset manager who is in her 50s, expressed the same when she visited last fall to get her first glow-up. Intake, consultation, treatment, recovery—these all happen on the same day. The first time I went through the assembly line, I felt mentally unprepared for the treatment to come so quickly after the consultation, which in the US is typically a separate visit. But after having gone through it many times, I now don’t see why the process should take more than a single visit. It’s so much more efficient this way.
Another difference vs, the U.S. is that many treatments are provided at once in Korean clinics. My clinic in Hapjeong has a treatment that many of my visiting friends have loved: the “All Kill.” Everything all at once. Of course the clinic is not going to allow two treatments that should not be administered together to be given at the same time. But all that can? Let’s go. My friend who did an All Kill last summer came out looking as puffy faced as can be. She looked like a boxer after a bad loss. But a week later, after the puffiness had faded and the treatments continued to work under the surface? She looked absolutely amazing, five to ten years rolled back in time.
When you decide to give it a try, I encourage picking a clinic that makes you feel comfortable and confident. Approach it like you’re picking a really nice restaurant for a special meal—maybe like a first Michelin Star restaurant experience. Don’t think of it like picking your wedding dress. It’s not that singular. Set aside 1-4 hours, maybe a bit more. Go into the experience relaxed and looking forward to a glowed up you. You’ll come out looking a bit beaten up and maybe a little sore and numb. No pain no gain right? Then after a day or two you’ll start to see the progress that was made, woohoo!
2.2 The Consultation
So you’ve picked a clinic from one of the many many Instagram posts you’ve viewed. You’ve reached out to the clinic via Instagram messaging or KakaoTalk, and an appointment is confirmed during your upcoming visit to Korea. What will happen at that consultation?
Typically:
- You’ll meet with a camera-ready professional with flawless skin and deep knowledge into all the available treatments.
- She (or he, but typically a she) will assess your facial skin using special photographic equipment. She’ll show you the black light photos which show the layers of skin under the surface. There will be some sun damage, moles, and other imperfections that show up. You’ll be prompted for what concerns you have.
- Based on the evidence and your concerns, the consultant will suggest a range of treatments, and what results you should expect. In my experience they do not overpromise; if anything they’ll discourage any hope that all your problems will go away. The treatments are meant to improve, not perfect.
- You’ll ask your questions, express any hesitations or fears, and clarify costs. You can also ask if there are any special discounts. The consultant is experienced and has heard it all—boldly put forth all that is on your mind, and don’t worry about what they might think. It’s their job to make you feel comfortable and confident in the clinic’s ability to help you.
- If you decide to proceed, you’ll pay and then proceed right into treatment.
Skin type concerns
A concern that many of my US friends have is: what if they don’t know my skin type? I’ve heard worries from friends with various skin tones about the impact of treatments on their skin tone, concerns about overly sensitive skin, and one friend I helped worried about her Bell’s Palsy. It’s possible you have a condition the clinic will be concerned about, but so far, I have learned that the treatments work on everyone—yellow, white, brown, or dark brown—and whether your skin is normal, oily, dry, extra sensitive, or anything else. As my doctor said to me once when I asked about treating my brown-toned husband: skin is skin.
Language considerations
Some clinics have English-speaking staff. Some don’t. My own bias is in favor of the Korean only clinics. If they’re able to thrive in this tough market catering only to locals, they’re doing something right. Koreans are notoriously fickle and demanding consumers. I’d put my trust with those they also trust.
A word on safety
Finally, some friends have sent me some sensational horror stories from women who have come to Korea for treatments and then had something go very wrong. This can happen. The lasers are powerful, and injections are no joke. Proceed with caution and make sure you trust the staff to treat you with the utmost care, and will listen to you when you say that something feels off. That’s the best way to avoid any problems, small or big.
2.3 A Few Notes about The Treatment Process
Once you commit, things move fast. You’ll likely move to a prep area, where they’ll likely apply some numbing cream on your face so you don’t feel the burning sensation as much. To be honest, I forego the numbing cream because I don’t find the treatments very painful. I also don’t like the extra waiting time for the numbness to kick in. I am generally a little creeped out by numbing agents too. I’ve heard that some patients find the pain excruciating even with the cream. But having given birth three times without any painkillers, I am skeptical that anything at a skin clinic could come close to that pain.
For the treatment, you’ll be taken into a different room and the doctor will enter to handle this part. Most doctors I’ve encountered in this setting have been excellent, with good crisp motions and a pleasant bedside manner. Many also speak at least some English, as all highly-educated Koreans learn English (many extensively) in the pressure cooker high schools they undoubtedly graduated from to get into Korean medical schools to then be your doc. In Korea, medical school begins as an undergraduate program. So don’t be surprised if your doctor is a bit younger than you expected. They probably have more experience than you realize. Plus, every Korean dermo I know is their own guinea pig. They are keenly aware that they are their own walking billboard. All the stuff they’re about to do for you? They’ve sat in your seat too.
After the treatment is done, you’ll be taken to a recovery area where a technician will pamper your skin with soothing serums and cooling agents while any lingering pain subsides and your numbing cream wears off. This can take 30-45 minutes, and feels like a mini facial. Then the tech will apply lotion and sunscreen (if you’d like) and you’ll be on your way. The front desk may give you some instructions on aftercare. I’ve never been told anything too involved, so I take the usual precautions: avoiding direct sun, drinking lots of water, and getting good sleep.
The first day after the treatment will be bit of a daze. Your skin needs time to regenerate, inflammation to subside, collagen to build.
In the days and weeks following, you’ll notice that your skin is strangely younger feeling, and you’ll start to hear other people notice as well.
2.4 Benchmark Pricing
Pricing in Seoul is generally transparent and consistent. I would not anticipate a foreigner premium. That said, it’s useful to know what the going rates are. Here are the basic rates that my Hapjeong clinic is offering right now. (All figures in 1,000 KRW with US$ estimate)
Lifting:
- Sofwave + Thermage combo: 6,190 KRW / US$4,200
- Sofwave + Ulthera combo: 3,590 KRW / US$2,500
- Onda: 690 KRW / US$450
Skin Boosters:
Range between 190 KRW and 1,350 KRW / US$140 to $950 for various combos
Discoloration/CO2:
Range between 140 KRW and 870 KRW / US$90 to $650
Let me know if you want more detail, as the pricing of lasers is based on how many shots are included.
The last All Kill visit I tagged along on, the bill came to about US$3,500 for a Thermage + Ulthera combo with some Botox thrown in. My friend also got a couple of Doubleslim shots that slowly melted away some fat on her jaw line. This was amazing to see working over time. When I saw her three months later, her jaw definition was impressive. To me, the most interesting aspect of these skin treatments is that they continue to keep making additional progress over the medium term.
A quick note: Korea used to do tax refunds for aesthetic treatments by foreigners. I didn’t understand why the refund was offered at all but the program has now come to an end. I just saw the kiosk vendor wheeling out the kiosk from my clinic the other day. RIP.
2.5 How to Choose Your Clinic
A misconception that I often hear is that the “best” clinics are located in Gangnam. While Gangnam Style has put this glitzy district of Seoul on the mental maps of millions of global citizens, reputable clinics are everywhere. Kim Kardashian, for example, went to an exclusive clinic in Yongsan when she visited Seoul, in an area known for quiet residential low rises and embassies. I have tried clinics throughout Seoul and in Gyeonggi Province (the province that wraps around Seoul proper), and have experienced many that provide excellent guidance and treatment options.
A friend of mine from graduate school who lives in Banpo once recommended a high-end clinic near her home, which I liked but haven’t tried yet. I have also found clinics tucked into neighborhoods like Seongsu, Yeonnam, or even near Gyeongbokgung which are well-regarded and where I would personally go if I didn’t happen to live within a five minute walk of one I like in Hapjeong. My point is this: not all clinics are reputable, but there are many that are, and they are not tied to a single location.
So how do you choose where to look?
I recommend using Instagram to find clinics that appeal to you in some way, then see where they’re located. Let the clinic lead you to the neighborhood, not the other way around.
My American friends are a little shocked when I say this next thing, but it’s true: Choosing a skin care clinic is closer to choosing a good dental hygienist in the US than it is to choosing a good hair stylist. Glow ups are not plastic surgery. Glow ups are not that complicated. At a glow up spa there are only a few things you can do to your skin to improve the look and feel of your skin. 1. You can use lasers or heat to zap a specific layer, which always felt to me like intentionally setting a forest fire in order to stimulate new growth. 2. You can get an injection of something that either fills or treats. Different tools exist for different indications, but there are only so many things that can go wrong with your skin as it ages, and treatment at the glow up level is not rocket science.
A note on Instagram videos
I find that Instagram is broadly sensationalistic. These treatments are not a panacea. They’re also not a red carpet event. They’re really useful to enhance your look and feel, subtly and without surgery. Instagram has a way of building everything up to be a little extra, and I worry that that gets people’s hopes up and pushes their attitudes in the high maintenance direction. Don’t get too hung up on learning what all the brand names of the lasers and injections are, and all the new experimental treatments out there. Hang back a bit on the new stuff. Let the first movers be the first 10,000 guinea pigs before you step up. Even if all you did was the most typical stuff, you’ll end up looking and feeling great, and at a good price thanks to the unusually weak won.